It was a hard day today.  First of all, it’s not fair to bunk beside a man who naps silently, and so tricks you into thinking he doesn’t snore, then honks away all night.  Between 11-1am I seriously considered going over and shaking him, by 2am I was resigned to it, and by 3:30am he stopped and I slept.

I was away with the Early Birds this morning.  Hard not to get up when the lights are on… so away by 6:30am.  A grey morning, with residual clouds from the brief thunderstorm the night before blocking the dawn.  The temp was mild, I started off in my t-shirt, and the way was hard sidewalk all the way into Ponferrada.

The Camino zigs us in to the old town, then immediately zags us out into the suburbs. It was 8am on Sunday morning so naught was open but a bar or two.  My impression? Pavement, sidewalks and a really cool castle.

My new Spanish buddies coincidentally left Molinaseca at the same time this morning.  We stopped at the same bar for coffee, and same Kodak Photo Op at the castle. I followed them thru the ‘burbs, only to pass them on the first hill and then they were out of sight.

As obscure as some of the signing was this morning, I only had to follow the line of pilgrims filing out of town…

The 2 in foreground are my hopscotch partners

Then it was hard road thru several small towns for another 8kms. Not particularly attractive walking; the villages were nondescript, though it seemed they planted roses as best they could to enliven the plain facades.  I had my music on to help get me over the hard pavement…

Finally, after 17kms I finally hit a dirt track and vineyards, lovely vineyards. And stands of trees, fields, horses, and birds.  Nature restored my good nature.  At least for a few ‘K’s’.

It was hard road once more into Cacabelos, a fairly attractive one-horse town. I bought some bread and prosciutto and had a lovely respite in a tiny grassy park in the middle of town.

I decided to continue on to Villafranca del Bierzo, making it a 31km day, as I felt strong and it set me up well for the ‘big’ mountain climb tomorrow.  I stopped at the local albergue before leaving Cacabelos to use the ‘servicios’ and there were my Spanairds! They had stopped for the night, so I don’t know if I’ll see them again.

Another ascent on hard roadside before breaking out into gorgeous vineyards. The pic at the top of this entry is probably my favorite view of the whole camino…(I’ll replace it with a better pic later)

I had hoped to stay at the same albergue as Cathy (from last night), but their advertising signs into town said they were already full.  Instead, I booked into a nice, but odd, place – hydropowered spa showers, sheets on bed, dorm rooms, yet feels like it’s been converted from a garage… And, we’re not allowed to do our own laundry, which is fatal to the pilgrim who only carries one spare change of clothes.  They want us to pay them for washing it (god forbid!!), so I’ll be wearing and carrying some stinky clothes tomorrow. 🙂

At this moment, (4:30pm) I’m doing my best to finish my 3-course lunch, Esteban-style. Last night I waited until 7:30pm for the albergue dinner with only having some cherries, crackers, and the ubiquitous little cakes served with coffee, the whole day to hold me over – I nearly chewed my arm off! Now I’m ready to toddle off to bed and sleep until tomorrow…


Post Script – well, not quite.  3 nice Spanairds noticed I was alone and asked me along for a drink in the town square.  All friends who have worked together, 2 are from Barcelona and 1 Madrid.  Here´s us trying to find a bar….