A very cold and windy start to the day, but beautifully clear. I had enough steam between my ears to keep me warm, anyway. I made myself beside myself at the huge long line of pilgrims trudging before me, passing me, me passing them, and trailing behind me. Many people start just before the 100km mark (Sarria) so they can qualify for their “compostela” in Santiago, ergo the masses now on the road.

There were too many pilgrims to be wishing “Buen Camino” to every single one, and I’m sure many of the new probably don’t recognize that typical pilgrim greeting. Many were tour-o-grinos, walking with daypacks while their taxi or tour bus met them along the way. I know I shouldn’t judge others but the influx of humanity spoiled my mood, and the only shining light in the trudge was seeing some friends along the way. At this point I just want to get to Santiago and be done with it…

We eventually all found our pace and the morning rush spread out a bit. My mood was restored by 2nd coffee time. I popped into the last bar in passing through Melide, and it turns out so did my two Frenchmen, the ones who shared their bread with me and whom we discussed the weather with that crazy bartender way back when. They treated me my coffee and we had a nice catch up.

Then I was back on the road alone, the crowds were gone and I was walking on pleasant country lanes with the sun shining bright, the smell of grass and eucalyptus trees in the air, and beautiful blown roses decorating everything. Aaaah….exhale….

Oops, I forgot………….to stop…….. in Aruza (mile marker 39).  It was such a great day to walk and I was just clicking ever so closer to Santiago; if I kept going I could arrive there tomorrow. And then I wouldn’t have to do hand-laundry tonight!
So I kept on trucking. It was shades of the Madrid Route, while the others were safely tucked into their beers, I’m alone and have the whole Way to myself. It really was a beautiful walk, besides the 2 towns and countless tiny hamlets, the way was almost all shady paths through forests, farms, and fields left wild. The sun was warm but I stayed cool and refreshed under the green bowers. There were some nice hills to climb as well, so I felt like I was getting a little exercise too…. 🙂

I collapsed in a little pension in Brea, mile maker 23, at 6:30pm. I clocked in at about 45.2kms today. I hate to think what Bill is going to say about it tomorrow.