Sailing Along

Day 4 & 5 –

Just a quick little voyage this morning, from 5-7:30am. We were so busy sleeping, then eating, we hardly knew we were underway! We docked right in downtown Mainz, so technically in the middle of things, but there was a Fair set up so our view was blocked by a ferris wheel, bratwurst stands and gypsy caravans. It was quiet as a churchyard though, as today was an important catholic holiday; I think the fair folk were waiting in eager anticipation for the special mass procession to finish so they could open up shop and start raking in the euros. It made rather dreary sightseeing as absolutely nothing was open and therefore the streets of town were soul-less; we’re not shoppers, it is fun to look around town and people-watch. The ship’s female crew were especially disappointed as this was the 2nd time the town was shut down on their visit – they wanted to spend their tip money!

We suffered another excruciating tour guide, this time in Mainz, which was unfortunate as I was very interested in seeing the Gutenberg museum and viewing 2 of the remaining 48 bibles left in the world. As it was, I just stood there, stupified by boredom, trying to drag up some interest in the rare historical tomes.

a cruise pax helped print a page on a replica press

Things picked up when we left the guide and trotted up to St. Stephens church to look at the stained glass windows. Our initial impression entering was that there was such a calming atmosphere of ethereal blue light that spilled in from all the high windows. Every one in the gothic building is a new window, created by Marc Chagall (and his proteges); such a dichotomy to see the modern work of a Russian Jew in a classic German catholic church. The pics can’t do justice to the utter beauty of the windows, but here’s a sample…

Even I could sit thru Mass in a church like this!

Mainz was our only stop today, and it also marked the entrance to our 3rd river, the Main. Not nearly as scenic as the Moselle or the Rhine, the banks of the gentle Main showed us fields, farms, houses, small villages, and industrial plants. A perfect afternoon for reading and napping.

We sailed all afternoon and night, not docking till we reached Miltenberg at 8am Friday. Miltenberg itself was not of special interest but serves as the gateway to Heidelberg, a 1 3/4hr bus ride away. This was our biggest tour day so far. Both mom and I had been there before but of course I don’t remember a thing about it so I was quite interested to see the town.

There was a huge ruin of a castle: