Day One: Sevilla to Guillena (22.8kms)
I had hoped for an early start this morning but it was still pitch black at 7am!! What a shock from the Desert where the sun pokes its head over the horizon well before 6am. I puttered around the hostel’s common room, saying hello to all the other pilgrims who are all keeping to themselves (anyone up at 7am has to be a pilgrim!). It looks like I’ll get to practice my high school French and non-existent German as so far there’s Jim & Moira from Scotland, Jean & Mary + 2 other femmes from France, a little German man with a friendly face and a humongous backpack, and the 2 ladies from my room whose nationality is so far a mystery as we’ve only communicated in sign language but whose plastic water bottles have me guessing Polish. So 10 pilgrims from just one hostel, it might be a busy Camino after all!

The first 10kms out of Seville were a lousy slog on sidewalks through the industrial icky litter-strewn suburbs. Luckily it was a sunny day and the cool breeze carried the pleasant scent of the many blossoming orange trees that lined the way.  It was easy enough to sort of block out the view and attend to one’s other senses as the miles clicked along.

I was stopped by the police just outside the town of Camas, about 5kms from Seville.  I saw them pull over in front of me and they waited till I approached before getting out of the car = uh oh!  It turned out, however, that one of officers had walked part of the Camino Frances last May and just wanted to have a little chat with a fellow pilgrim! So now I’m practicing my travelers Spanish as well!

After 10kms I reached Italica (picture above), the site of extensive but well-worn roman ruins dating to 200 BC.  There were some pretty mosaics, a large amphitheater and tons of rambunctious school kids.  A nice little interlude from walking.  Then it was another 10 kms of arrow-straight dirt road to Guillena.  

 As much as I hiked this winter I was still a pooped puppy arriving at the albergue. All my training hadn’t quite prepared me for the pounding on the pavement with 20lbs. on my back (forewarned Sallie & Michele!).  I dropped my pack off and hightailed it to a bar where I started my recuperation with a huge 3-course lunch. My feet and tummy are both happy now.