

It’s
my last full day in Madeira so I decided to check out the other half of
the island – the east side. I scored a front seat in the minivan again,
but unfortunately a middle one squeezed between the driver and a Polish
Facebook fanatic so I wasn’t able to take many photos during the drive
itself. There were only 8 of us in the van, 2 being German so the driver
conducted the commentary in both languages. Unfortunately, this
particular driver seemed to have forgotten to bring his personality
along today so I was able to give the scenery my full attention!
Our first stop was a wicker factory, which didn’t fill me with high
expectations for the day, but I dutifully checked it out and was pleased
to see a lady actually making a basket. It’s a dying art as there’s
been a 50% decrease in weaving in the last 20 years alone as demand has
plummeted. I think now they’re primarily making only ‘treasures’ for
tourists.

We then drove up to the highest driveable point of the island, Pico do
Arieiro, at 1801m. Very windy, very ch-ch-chilly, very view-tiful. It’s
also a very popular spot for hikers to start on various treks and
ambles.




We descended down to Ribeira Frio, a tiny bend in road which my
guidebook tells me has some of the most scenic walks on the island ,
including the .5 mile one to the waterfalls. My driver/guide told us to
go see the trout farm and cafe….


Then, we stopped for lunch, saw another viewpoint, then drove out to the far, dry, eastern end of Madeira.

A re-creation of the original type of home built on Madeira

All in all, it wasn’t a bad day. My Polish seatmate said literally one word the whole time, and our guide not much more, so it was really quite relaxing; the landscape wasn’t quite as stunning as the as the west coast but how can you compare great unless there’s a less great?
My trip to the Madeiras has really been brilliant. I’d love to come back some day and do some of the great hikes they have but tomorrow I move on: a layover day in Porto, then on to Salamanca for two weeks.