Drove the Burren today. It’s a rocky geological area full of Neolithic sites and old stone forts. I got a map from the Visitor’s Center from a highlighter- happy woman and had a great day exploring. My favorite castle was the medieval Leamaneh Castle, which was home to the infamous Maire Rua (murdering husbands and stealing fortunes or something scandalous like that). I came across it unawares and pulled right over to have a look: although roofless, it’s still an amazing 4 stories high and even the mullions remain in the windows. It wasn’t an open site but it was right by the road and the fence was low……

After this quick stop I carried on north through the Burren uplands, looking out for the scenically situated but now ruined stone church of Carran

and then a little side trip across a cow-pattied field to see Temple Cronan, an former small monastic community

Then I drove to Caherconnell, old stone fort used from as far back as 1000 A.D. up to the 1700’s! Well, they’re not actually forts but tall defensive stone rings surrounding the lord’s homesteads and livestock. In the past, wealth was measured by the number of cows & sheep one had, so you wanted to keep them safe from marauders and envious neighbours!  It was operated by an archeological society so it was a very well developed site with walkways, an information video, even a snack bar!

Jumping back through history a bit my next stop was a prehistoric site, the Poulnabrone dolmen that has been dated back 5,800 years!

Then a bit further down I stopped by a farmers field and hopped over another fence to see another dolmen tucked out of view in the corner of his property. 

Then it was north and down off the Burren and thru Ballyvaughan to Corcomroe Abbey, which was dedicated to ‘Our Lady of the Fertile Rock’ by the Cistercian monks in 1194. Its a superb place to admire some elaborate carvings and beautiful masonry. Surprisingly, a tomb effigy is still there. Again, the locals have the odd practice of burying themselves in the old church ruins. It’s rather disconcerting to see modern tombstones amongst the old.

Afterwards I swung west and took a long circular drive home along the coast. It was a long but very satisfying day driving and sightseeing. I really enjoyed seeing the prehistoric sites in the Channel Islands and was glad to see more here in Ireland. Its hard to imagine the difficult conditions those early peoples had to suffer through in such an inhospitable environment.

Saying that, I picked up some lovely roast chicken, salad and a crisp white wine for my dinner which I’ll eat in my private dining room with a good book on my electronic device – my how things have changed!

Overnight: Rineen