Day 2: Vila Do Conde, 24 kms

It was a late start by Camino standards but everyone at the hostel slept in in order to enjoy the included breakfast which started at 8am. I was finally out the door by 8:45 am and walked right into a misty overcast day; the heavy marine layer making my €5 fleece a very wise purchase.

I found my first camino yellow arrows at the bridge over the Rio Leça, just at the north end of town. This was welcome to help guide me through the town before once again reaching the sea and heading north to Spain!

I’m perversely thrilled with the gloomy weather, it’s such a welcome change from the unseasonably hot temperatures and relentless sun at home. I hope I’m not jinxing the weather saying that but the forecast for the next week or so looks promising.

I walked a short while with a German girl from the hostel on her first camino. She’ll be walking the same path as me today but switching to the Central route tomorrow. She commented on some of the other pilgrims, many marching along in double time. It takes a while for everyone to find their own pace.

I took my first sit-down break at 6 kms at a nice beachside cafe. Unfortunately I can’t see the ocean due to the mist but I know it’s there, the temperature is perfect and there’s funky 40’s jazz on the radio so it’s a relaxing stop.

After 12 kms I reached Angeiras, a fishing village. It’s been a long 8 miles, I’m not sure why. I easily knocked out 8 miles in training, even did a 10 miler in the days before I left. Maybe I stiffened up sitting for so long on the plane ride over? Maybe I over/under-trained? Well, it’s noon now so I’ll look for a cafe for lunch which should offer me a decent rest.

I found Lançar O Isco. I’m not sure if it’s a beach cafe or nice restaurant but the fish was amazing and the bread so delicious I took all the extra away with me!

After lunch the sun came out with just a few wispy clouds left over the ocean but the strong, cold wind remained. Luckily the sun was at my back, though the wind was in my face which made it hard to stop for long without getting chilled.

There’s actually no wind at this time, that’s just my ‘do after hours of heading into it!

The going got harder as my body parts started to protest the work I’m making them do. I even had to put some tape on a baby toe that was threatening a blister! Problems I never encountered at home. And, to put insult to injury, I think my Garmin is lying to me, in the worst possible way. I think it’s saying I’m walking more than I actually am, which is heart breaking 😦 I’ll have to diagnose it when I get to my albergue tonight, which is still 2 more miles away.

I met a nice girl from Vancouver at my 2 miles to go ice cream stop and we walked together the rest of the way into Vila do Conde. She’s a Camino veteran so we had lots to chat about and the remaining distance flew by.

I presciently booked a semi-private en-suite room so I shall be able to recuperate in comfort. Interestingly, after showering and doing my hand laundry I felt amazingly spry so I ventured out to find an ATM, mini-market and as there was nothing of interest to make for dinner I followed some others to a “pilgrim restaurant”. This place is fantastic! 3-course menu, 2 choices for each, plus bread, olives and wine, for …..€8!!!! Look at what I got! They’re getting a big tip!