Another absolutely brilliant day today!

6 kms I had my first break and a morning snack of water and madeleines sitting on edge of the boardwalk watching the sea and beachcombers gathering shellfish at low tide.

by 7 kms I noticed there seems to be a fire over in the town to my right. I noticed brown smoke earlier but it’s now a haze hanging over the area with ribbons of smoke filtering south over the forestsI’m obviously safe here on the boardwalk but curious and concerned. A few kms further it looks as though there are several small fires, perhaps it’s as simple as today is Burn Your Garden Waste Day? Ah, later I realized it’s Saturday and it’s exactly that, so nothing to worry about.

It’s magical walking in the early morning, with just pilgrims and perambulators out and everything else so quiet. I almost feel as though I’m sneaking in the miles before the day really starts.

Eventually the path veered inland a bit and I ended up walking behind 3 pilgrims that I’d kinda been leapfrogging a bit. At one point we all stopped together to check our phones for directions and carried on up a little hill that had two old windmills on top. I knew there was a path back down by the sea so I kept my eyes peeled for signs and soon was walking along a true trail amongst the gorse and broom with nothing and no one else around. The others had their eyes to their phone and not only missed this turn off (only to later trample across a field to regain the path) but a few miles later do the same thing, committing themselves to more miles on the road! One benefit of walking solo = eyes and ears stay attentive not only to nature but to arrows!.

At one point the boardwalk ended and I had the option of taking a deviation inland on manicured path/forest trail or walk 2.5kms along Afife beach. For me, an easy choice, as beautiful as the beach may be.

One always has to have one ear listening for the sound of bicyclists rattling down the boardwalk behind you. I had one pass, then a few minutes later I heard another sound but mechanized. I was puzzled for a moment as there was nothing behind me then over the dune a low-flying parasailer(?) flew by!

Another narrow path led through the trees and as I stepped aside to let a huge group of kids and parents go by, a set of 3 couples stopped to ask if I was a peregrina walking to Santiago? Not today, I replied. One of the husbands had just spent last week on the Camino a bit further north from here! They commiserated that rain was coming in a few days but promised me I’d still enjoy the walk!

Once again I was faced with trudging the last few hundred yards to my destination by beach. There was nothing for it as it’d be a huge walk around otherwise.

I was checked into my albergue by 12:30pm, immediately dropped my bag and headed right out for lunch. I’ve received a text that my bag has just been picked up from last night’s accommodation so I’ve a hour or two to wait until I get my toiletries and clothes for a shower so lunch will hit the spot. No open cafes so no coffee or breakfast today!

The hospitalera (albergue host) brought me to a restaurant just down from her place so there’s some association but that’s okay. I ordered the Pilgrims Menu – a soup and the fish course, which turned out to be grilled squid! Quite good, though probably wouldn’t be Mikey’s choice. I’ve a front row seat to watch both pilgrims march by on the Camino in front and surfers try the waves on the beach below. The temperature is perfect and my muscles have liquified and wine is just an order away. I might never leave… except for a shower. I would like a shower.

Saturday afternoon and the beach area is hopping. The sidewalk restaurants beside my hostel are jamming with people, one even has a DJ spinning cool tunes. Tons of people are strolling the promenade and just as many sitting on the balustrade watching them. At 5:30 pm there’s still a few hardy surfers and beach goers enjoying the late afternoon rays. Life is good in Vila Praia.