We had a massive snorer in our little room last night. He was on the top bunk, his wife would occasionally wake him from below when he got too bad but I think she eventually gave up. It got worse as the morning approached so I finally got up at 6:15am, took everything out to the nook to pack, and started walking at exactly 7am.

Very overcast today, not sure what the weather is going to do. Forecast is for rain so I’ve all my goods in plastic and my dollar store poncho at the ready.

1/2 hour on city streets then a nice dirt road with heavy overhanging branches forming a pilgrim tunnel proved a half mile respite before we crossed a large busy road then started climbing up long, steep hills that made my calf muscles burn.

The route now seems to be up on a hillside and traveling through thinned eucalyptus forest. One can only faintly hear civilization, more so the chirping of birds. Still no rain yet…

After 4 miles the way passed through the town of Arcade. I’m on the lookout for my first coffee stop. The Camino was being too efficient at keeping us off the main drag so I took a detour away from the arrows and followed my nose to a little pastelería for my coffee. The hostess was just coming out of the kitchen with a tray of mini croissants so I asked for 2 of those and look what I was served! I still got the complimentary cakes as well. Luckily I had a spare ziplock to take the leftovers for later. On a sugar and caffeine high I’m ready to resume walking!

We left Arcade via a medieval bridge, then wind up steep cart-width wide roads past narrow homes both new and ancient to plots of farm and vineyards, then onto a carefully constructed pilgrim path through “wilderness”. Two Camino routes have merged now and tens of thousands of pilgrims walk by each year so either to make it easier or to protect from the erosion of millions of footsteps the government has begun this trail “improvement” program in places.

The rain finally started falling as a light mist just as I was navigating the large boulders used as paving stones on the steeper section of the walk through the forest. I’ve appealed to the rain gods for it not to get any worse, we’ll see.

No, mist got heavier so my cheapo poncho went on. Unfortunately during another steady uphill I realized that it was way too hot to wear so I think I found a clever way for only my pack to wear it.

Some more entrepreneurs, 3 so far today, have set up covered tables selling fruit, snacks, pilgrim souvenirs, even hand-tooled leather wallets, keychains, etc., profiting off the pilgrim trade. Probably much as they did a 1000 years ago!

The rain never really got heavier than a drizzle so it wasn’t bothersome at all. Instead, I found it rather peaceful, just the click-clack of my walking sticks and the murmur of distant pilgrims.

At 9 miles I stopped under a tree for a little rest and 20 or so pilgrims walked by. Quite a change as my last 2 days walking I didn’t see a single one. No ducking off to pee behind a tree here!

Almost all of us took a deviation on the route to follow a path by a small river. It was a lovely couple of miles, almost mystical being deep in the trees with the grey misty sky hovering just above the treetops. All of a sudden it’s a conveyer belt of people marching past. Many with no or tiny packs, I think it might be a tour group . Makes it a bit hard to appreciate all the nature when you’re having to watch your elbows!

At exactly 12 miles I stopped at the first bar I saw for a much yearned-for break. A long drizzly walk with not many opportunities to sit was pushing my limits. It being already past noon I ordered a nice white wine instead of coffee as my refreshment, I needed to be able to sleep tonight. And it’s just 2 more kilometers to my hostel so I’ll have a nice lunch once I finish. It’s a happening bar, I think most pilgrims are stopping here too.

Semi-revived I venture forth for the last little bit. My pack is free of the poncho and I’m thinking I might need my sunglasses in the increasing brightness. It’s not a salubrious welcome to Pontevedra, as my mother would say, but improved the closer to the old town that I got.

There’s indications of the Camino everywhere from street names to scallop shells carved into building emblems and crosses. It’s been an important part of this city’s history for hundreds of years.