Today was the walk I was most looking forward to: La Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua (Route of Stone and Water). It’s really what makes the Espiritual Variente famous, 8 kms knobbly trail along a babbling creek with a dozen+ ruins of old watermills slowly being reclaimed by nature.

I didn’t hit the trail till 8 am but the sun was just then breaking over hill behind the Pousada, let alone penetrating through the dense tree canopy of the Ruta. Immediately there’s a little waterfall, then a ruin, then another waterfall. I can’t stop taking pictures and am proceeding at a snails pace. It’s so dark and mysterious and compelling. I have it all to myself as other pilgrims have mistakenly taken a different way that remains above the little gorge while I’m right at the water’s edge. Unfortunately I don’t know the history of these mills, I’d be happy to know just from when they date.

After 3 kms of happily descending amongst the ruins I must cross a modern bridge over to the other side of the creek where there the trail levels off and becomes a pleasant wide walking path with the occasional flour mill or sawmill.

It’s Sunday and this easier path is a popular exercise walk and bike route for the locals. The Spanish are very polite so I’m constantly “Buenos Días” and “Hola”-ing to all whom I meet.

At 7.2kms there’s a welcome little snack kiosk with the great name of O Chiringo de Concha, and the first pilgrims I’ve seen since starting, enjoying their morning pickup. It’s a fun place and busy place with lots of photos on the walls of happy customers and a caring hostess who actually ran after one lady to make ensure she got a stamp for her pilgrim credential!

The path continued on in different variations; sometimes between the creek and highway, sometimes between the creek and vineyards, for the next 7 kms.

Thankfully there was plenty of shade for this first half as it got up to 92° (33°C) today.

At 14.7 kms I had my first food of the day: a Magnum ice cream bar in the company of other wilting pilgrims before heading back to the Camino which unfortunately was now on a sidewalk heading uphill into a small village. Then it was backroads up and over a hill of eucalyptus trees then back down to miles of residential walking until at 22kms a little respite of pine forest broke open to display the shining sea beyond.

Oh, I was so tempted to drop my pack, take my shoes off, and spend the rest of the day right there. Warm sun, cool breeze, gentle waft of pine scent and a gorgeous view? What could be better? The only problem was that I thought if I stopped now I might actually never get started again so I persevered on past families sunbathing, kids frolicking in the surf, couples enjoying drinks in the multiple beach bars and campsites, to the long pedestrian bridge leading into town.

It was only another 400m to my hotel and I was starting to drag. I bumped into Kelly and she mentioned that the market near my hotel was closed today and her hospitalero recommended both the restaurant just opposite where we were standing and one back by the harbor. I had planned to grab a salad and eat in my room but her news made my decision for me, eat now! I’ll struggle the last few meters later.

I’ve a little garret room at the back of the hotel but it’s all I need for tonight. There’s a bar and restaurant downstairs so I don’t need to stray far if I get the urge. It’d be lovely to head back to the beach but at almost a mile one way it’s not going to happen tonight.