Today started with a 28 kilometer boat ride!* I think they rationalize this modern transport as there’s a belief that the boat carrying the remains of St James traveled this way to Pontecesures/Padron so we are “remembering this journey” or so says the pamphlet. I’m excited about the trip as I love being on the water and am not one who feels I must “walk every step”.

Usually the boat used is a 15-pax rubber inflatable so I prepped to have my raincoat and poncho handy but with the large number of pilgrims in town they’ve put on a proper sightseeing boat so I’ll be dry and snug indoors.

The estuary produces the second most mussels in the world after Canada as I think our captain told us as we had a little tour of the floating mussel farms on our way out of the harbor.

We also slowed down to watch clammers, back-breaking work where they toss a line then dredge up clams and probably many other things from the seabed.

The estuary became the River Ulla as we headed northeast. Most of it is undeveloped with the occasional little village and of special interest are the seventeen cruceiros, or 17 crosses that mark this route as THE ORIGIN OF ALL ROADS to Santiago (emphasis is the brochure’s).

2 kms after we arrived in Pontecesures and reached Padron, nature called so I stopped in a very local cafe and decided to have a coffee and a sandwich while I was there. I’ve all day to walk only 13 kms, however as I’ve only this one outfit to walk in I must arrive at my pension so that my hand washing has time to dry!

Then I stopped at a grocers for a packaged salad I rather enjoy for my dinner and bottled water as the tap water lately hasn’t been to my taste so after all my fiddle-faddling about it was 12:15pm before I finally left Padron and unfortunately the temperature was getting rather warm.

All the 40-odd pilgrims from the boat are long gone for which I’m grateful as walking amongst others is like being in one long, stretched-out, congaline and one must keep a certain pace to uphold their place. Ridiculous really as it’s not a race but competitiveness is human nature. I also tend to stop being as observant when walking & chatting and I like to stop and take a lot of pictures. I’d hate to miss anything!

The Camino crisscrossed a main road today, walking through residential side roads and tiny pueblos when off the road, then along a somewhat industrial/business corridor when on it. Regardless, I found it all quite fascinating.

I passed a stone factory with crucerios and incompleted horreios for sale. I didn’t realize people were still installing statuary.

Warren of tiny streets of ruining buildings and new homes. The camino seems to try to route us thru the most scenic or off-highway routes as possible.

3pm I’m happily sitting on my balcony watching traffic and pilgrims go by. It’s getting hot now so a perfect time to stop and relax. The innkeeper gave me a choice of the quiet back room or the balconied one on the noisy highway. Contrarily I chose the latter since it faces West so I’ll be able to hang dry my walking outfit tonight and it’s a treat to have a proper sitting space. Oh, the price of all this? €25.