It was raining when I woke up this morning and though it had stopped when I left the albergue just after 7am it was cold = 7°. I think the dozen or so others who stayed at the albergue stuck around for breakfast but I like to get a few miles in first so I had the roads to myself.

Surprisingly I’m not at all stiff or sore from yesterday’s big exertion which is a great sign. I’ve another big day today so I’m off to a good start.

I stopped at the first open bar I saw; a bit early for it only being an hour in to my walk but my hands needed to wrap themselves around something warm. There’s a larger town just 2kms further, I think I’ll need to stop there as well.

7 kms at Olveiroa I had a proper breakfast of coffee, toast and fresh orange juice. That should set me up for the rest of the morning though I hardly feel like moving now. That’s the danger of resting too long.

7.5 kms the Camino finally left the road and I hardly saw it again for the rest of the day. The way climbed up until I was just below some wind turbines and it kept me at cold and breezy elevation for the next 18+ kilometers.

Once I reached the crest of this hill and taken my pictures of the pretty view it clouded over and the pitter patter of thick drops started. I continued to climb further with my head down and vision limited due to my jacket’s hood and I start to think I’ve got to be in the middle of nowhere and the road levels out and all of a sudden I’m in a tiny town looking at an albergue and a cafe! 3 buildings later I’m out of town and climbing again. It’s an old gravel road going up to who-knows-where. I left the rain back at that wee town and the sky is struggling to clear. I’m feeling strong and managing the incline fine.

Pine trees left, eucalyptus right

And the road leads to warm sunshine, a main road and a noisy hilltop plant of some sort and the last chance to eat or “drinnk” for 10 miles. I picked up a bocadillo and refilled my water so I’m ready to go.

Well, the sunshine lasted as long as it took me to order my sandwich; dark, heavy clouds are moving in. I pass the bifurcation for the way to Fisterra (aka Finisterre) and Muxia and after a bit of road I’m off on a path that starts a large plateau of grass and scrubby broom before dipping down to walk in the trees. This feels like a forgotten place left to go wild. The sun has peeked through for the moment so it’s a peaceful and pleasant walk.

At a crossroads there’s a large Cross statue. I read somewhere that in olden times these crosses were often set in places where evil spirits were felt to gather; I wonder why here at this junction? A sign of blessing or redemption?

17 kms – I have a 10 minute stop for lunch on a nice boulder. Too cold to stay longer. Then the road starts to descend from the hilltop to dip down to a closed chapel and back up again. It keeps climbing for a while and even though I’ve on my fleece and rain jacket and buff around my neck I don’t overheat. It’s still cool and there’s a cold breeze that keeps me comfortable in all my bundling as the road goes on…

19.5 kms – My first view of the ocean but the road continues…

21 kms – I think it warmed all the way up to 15°C so I finally took off my raincoat and put on my sunglasses. And the road stretches further…

Certain body parts were getting tired and frankly I’d been getting a bit bored these last few miles and, as if St. James were listening, a view of Cee appeared and it’s all downhill from here!

A very, very steep downhill and despite my desire to reach “Larry” I have to take mincing baby steps to save my knees and my balance. My hotel is on a quiet side street with little going on around me. It’s a Saturday and shops are only open a half day today. I’m not interested in trying to find a bar for dinner so I’ll make a supermarket run and pickup my usual salad & baguette & wine for a picnic dinner in my room.