Wow! Climbing (and descending) mountains is hard work! We all thought yesterday was to be the hardest stage but today has it in my book. No switchbacks on this camino; if the way goes down, it is straight down! Right out of Pajares I was hit with exactly one mile of knee-breaking descent with stunning … Continue reading Day 19: Salvador- Pola de Lena, 24.8 kms

“Tomorrow you will enter the kingdom of Asturias and with it the road wins in exuberance and splendor” By mutual agreement everyone slept in a little this morning; we’ve a short day, 15kms though with significant elevation (in both directions), but it’s been cold and dark in the mornings so we wanted to wait till … Continue reading Day 18: Salvador – Pajares, 14.3 kms

'Twas a good start this morning, I was the first one of the 5 in the albergue to hit the road at the daybreak hour of 7:45am. My pack felt quite good despite the emergency food I was carrying, then I realized it was because it was frigid out and I was wearing almost all … Continue reading Day 17: Salvador – Poladura de la Tercia, 25.9 kms

An awfully chilly start - 8°C. I made my way to the Parador hotel, and the statue of the tired pilgrim which is the starting point of this Camino. Not really an optimistic sign is it? Shouldn’t he be full of vim & vigor and raring to go if this is the start?? So why … Continue reading Day 16: Salvador- La Robla, 29.5 kms

A gorgeous city with gorgeous weather today. 17°C so warm enough in the sun, a little cool in the shade. Today was all about resting, doing laundry, and shopping for things I need (and other things I probably don’t need). I wandered to the cathedral to get my daily stamp for my credential and sat … Continue reading Day 15: León, 0 kms

What a grape day! Ha, ha. Been wanting to use that. Actually it was more of an okay day but this is the heart of Rioja and grapes were everywhere. Except at the beginning, I couldn’t see anything then. The hospitalero flicked the lights on in our big loft at 6:20am so there wasn’t really … Continue reading Day 14: Frances – Logroño, 22.3 kms

Estella turned out to be a major town and it was 4.5 kms through the town and suburbs before I reached the countryside. One of the last edifices being the famous Irache Bodega, where there's been grapes growing for over a thousand years(!), and since 1991 a free flowing tap has dispensed wine to thirsty … Continue reading Day 13: Frances – Sansol, 29.7 kms

Well, the rain came this morning, just as forecast. It was due to clear up after 9 or 10am but I couldn’t wait that long so off I went at my usual 7:30am. Luckily it was dry for the first 2 miles, then it came down in a torrent and the Camino came to a … Continue reading Day 12: Frances – Estella, 24.2 kms

Not auspicious sky this morning.... The dark clouds hung low as I traversed Pamplona's parks and city streets before gaining the countryside. There's a steady stream of pilgrims moving west through the brown harvested fields. I've only walked Spring before with its green grasses and profusions of wildflowers, so am curious what Fall will be … Continue reading Day 11: Frances – Puenta La Reina, 24.9 kms

Today was a Nero day, just 5 kms, so nearly "zero" miles. As such, I took my time getting started this morning. I was awake by 6:30a due to the chatting and packing of fellow pilgrims but I stayed abed as long as I could, then lingered to enjoy a leisurely coffee with Elise, an … Continue reading Day 10: Frances – Pamplona, 4.8 kms