Another big day today, at least elevation-wise for someone who’s been stuck walking my flat neighborhood for the last couple of weeks. 823 total meters up and 680 meters down!

We started before sunrise with a simple breakfast of toast and coffee. I left my meal to pop out to take a photo of the sunrise and bumped into Rui! His gite had just dropped him off so he could start from where he finished yesterday so I hurried to grab my pack so I could walk with him again!

7:20am we were climbing the steep road again but it was a beautiful day: clear with a cool breeze, couldn’t be better walking conditions. The hillsides around us were full of grazing horses, sheep, and cattle, all free to roam at will it seems. We saw a couple of shepherds out with their sheepdogs, who raced around herding the beasts to their owners whistled directions.

At 8 kms an entertaining local had set up a food van selling coffee, hot chocolate, boiled eggs, homemade cheese, and sweets, etc. to hungry pilgrims – the only food available for the whole day. Although we weren’t hungry we took a coffee to warm ourselves from the bitterly cold wind.

Onwards and upwards to the top of the barren mountain at 1450m. At one point we had some respite from the elements in a lane sheltered by arching birch trees. We stopped for a snack only to be accosted by curious and hungry sheep!

Finally we started heading downhill and saw the turreted roofline of the Roncesvalles albergue far below. Another 4.5 kms along heather-lined roads and steep grassy fields brought us down to the tiny hamlet and a welcome refreshing beer!

This new albergue is about 8 years old and a far cry from the old brick barn I stayed in in 2005 that slept 90 pilgrims in one crowded room. Now there’s little 4-bunk cubicles for 270 people set out over 3 floors with an elevator and hot-water for goodness sake! It can sleep hundreds and is always full. Apparently there’s been 400 or so people starting the Camino each day recently, far beyond the occupancy available in these little towns. Luckily I’ve reserved ahead for each night I’m on the Frances route….