Today was a Nero day, just 5 kms, so nearly “zero” miles. As such, I took my time getting started this morning. I was awake by 6:30a due to the chatting and packing of fellow pilgrims but I stayed abed as long as I could, then lingered to enjoy a leisurely coffee with Elise, an 18 year old from Montana, who’s on her first Camino. She got caught in a the bed rush yesterday and couldn’t find a room after Zubiri so she had to taxied ahead a whole stage to find accommodation here in Villava.

A pleasant walk again by the river, I arrived in Pamplona at 9:30a to find the town still locked up tight. Spaniards are NOT early risers so there is only the odd bread shop open. Streets are being cleaned and garbage being picked up. A town is always more attractive when things are open and there’s the hustle & bustle of daily life going on so I’ll find a cafe to sit and wait…

I walked around some but became dog-tired (lack of sleep last night or all the walking catching up with me?) so once my albergue opened for business I hopped in my bunk for a nice restorative nap. Luckily I paid extra for the semi-private room – the dorm looks a bit…cozy.

By 3pm I’m out on the streets again which are alive with tourists and tapas bars. It’s Saturday afternoon so everyone is out enjoying themselves. I walked up the famous Running With The Bulls street, which sells lots of kitschy souvenirs, to the monument celebrating this annual event.

Strolling around I found myself at the famous “Hemingway” bar and decided to treat myself to a late 3-course lunch. Definitely a step up from the traditional pilgrim’s meal: warm octopus salad with red peppers and fried goat cheese; grilled salmon and vegetables; caramel flan; and my own bottle of wine = 16€. I ❤️ Spain!