Not auspicious sky this morning…. The dark clouds hung low as I traversed Pamplona’s parks and city streets before gaining the countryside. There’s a steady stream of pilgrims moving west through the brown harvested fields. I’ve only walked Spring before with its green grasses and profusions of wildflowers, so am curious what Fall will be like – boring or hypnotic? So far this trip I’ve only been in mountains so lots of trees with leaves just changing color, the “plains” will be interesting.

At 12kms we topped a long slope to find a wee bar, open and inundated with pilgrims. Crazy after walking 5 days alone to be in the midst of such a parade of people.

Black clouds hung heavy to my right all morning till noon when magically they all blew away. How I avoided being rained on, I don’t know, but I’m grateful.

My pack was very heavy this morning but somehow I got comfortable with it and after a couple of hours I didn’t really notice the weight. Perhaps it was because the temperature was so perfect and the strong breeze so invigorating it made such a perfect walking environment.

The crowds thinned too as the day went on and the more bars (ie. rest stops) I passed.

Tonight the albergue is in the basement of a hotel. It’s a warren of rooms with a plain-looking lounge, kitchen, nice showers and masses of bunk beds cordoned off by bamboo screens. Normally there’s an outside patio and bar for us pilgrims but there’s a huge wedding this afternoon so it’s off limits. I’ve got my laundry hanging from the bed above me. It’ll be a test if Quick-Dri dries quickly indoors!