Estella turned out to be a major town and it was 4.5 kms through the town and suburbs before I reached the countryside. One of the last edifices being the famous Irache Bodega, where there’s been grapes growing for over a thousand years(!), and since 1991 a free flowing tap has dispensed wine to thirsty pilgrims.

Afterwards it was into a gorgeous green tunnel of stubby oak trees. I had managed to find a lull between pilgrim groups and had the path to myself self for a nice peaceful stretch.

8kms later I/we found a cafe, perfect timing for a morning pick-me-up. It turned out to be a rather long stop as there was a long queue at the counter. The single barista was in the zone, plating food while coffee dripped, and getting impatient with any customer who dithered over their choices. I didn’t blame her as there was constantly 10 people in line and more arriving by the minute. I spat out my order and got a smile in return.

The rest of the day was spent walking over rolling hills, through farmland of recently harvested hay fields, small vineyards, the occasional olive grove and pockets of trees. I had been concerned about Fall being dull but it was a riot of color: rich red soil, some still green grasses, the golden of stubs of hay, and the still flowering plants lining the gravel roads. It was a delight to see.

By noon high clouds filled the sky which although muted the deep contrasts of the different colors, made for ideal walking conditions .

It was 13kms between towns, just lovely country walking with one little rest to enjoy the view and eat a packed sandwich. Descending a hill we walked right into a town, down a long narrow street lined with deserted-looking buildings and homes. I turned a corner and pow: the town plaza and all the pilgrims that have arrived before me seem to have taken over the square. Los Arcos is an End Stage town for many but I’m walking further today as I need a shorter day tomorrow to catch a bus.

After 22kms I needed my music to get me through the last few miles to Sansol, thoughtfully positioned atop a minor hill (never at the bottom!). 18.5 miles, longest walk in I can’t remember when. First thing I did upon arrival was to take my shoes off and put my feet up! Someone is already snoring in this open loft of bunk beds, doesn’t bode well for this evening!

The albergue is an converted cow barn, of indeterminate age but old regardless, with lots of character with it’s thick stone walls and hewn-beamed ceilings. The little attached pasture now has a tinkling fountain and outdoor seating areas. Best of all, there’s a bar and restaurant! I feel like I’ve arrived at an oasis in the desert.

I fell into conversation with a Englishman and 2 Danish ladies and spent the rest of the afternoon and dinnertime chatting about pretty much everything with them. A very nice way to end a great day.