Here I go again! Next up is the Camino Primitivo. This is the Original route, ’cause back in 813 King Alphonse II traveled from Oviedo to Santiago to check out the newly found remains of St. James thereby becoming the first “pilgrim”. He also helped found the beginnings of the cathedral there = a camino Route was born. When the capital moved to Leon, the easier Frances became the preferred route, but the Primitivo is still prized for its outstanding beauty; however, as I’ve learned it takes big hills to have great views!

Today: Well, it only took .4 kms before I made my first stop this morning. I hadn’t slept well, so ended up leaving the hotel before dawn, which isn’t really practical as it’s too hard to see the waymarkers in the dark. Ergo my breakfast stop at the first open cafe I found.

Fortified, I headed out, only to be rained on a few minutes later. I stopped to get all rigged out in my new blue poncho for it to stop about 15 minutes later! I leapfrogged a large bunch of Korean ladies as I was putting on/pulling off my rain gear. They were all smiles and “Buen Camino”; from their new-looking shoes, I think they’re just starting out. Within the first hour I’d seen more pilgrims than the whole Salvador route!

Today’s walk included a little of everything: big hills and little hills; lots of road walking and some pleasant forest paths; remote pastures and residential hamlets; bright sun and threatening clouds; cows, corn and apple trees.

I did well until my 2nd rest stop at about 20 kms. My shin-splinty leg was starting to make itself known so I had a good rest and popped an Ibuprofen. The last 6 kms I took it slowly, spending lots of time taking photos and thinking about the small things: someone’s choice to paint their house in brilliant turquoise, the amount of wildflowers still in bloom this time of year, what is still growing in the locals’ gardens and how there’s so many apple trees, most of the fruit just rots on the ground. I’ve a reserved bed tonight so no hurry in reaching my albergue….

Grados is another drawn-out town and of course my albergue was at its’ far end! I was more than ready to stop and EAT as I’d only some toast, bread and a chocolate bar all day so I was on a mission to shower, wash clothes and hightail it to the recommended restaurant before lunch service stopped at 4pm. I happily indulged in the full 3-course menu and the first course Asturian soup was so good I could’ve wept. I did my best to eat the whole tureen but also had to leave room for the two courses to follow. No dinner for me tonight!