Day 23: Primitivo – Salas, 25.1 kms

It was a long night/short sleep last night. My attractive room was stuffy and noisy what with 6 of the 8 beds taken and 4 of those were snoring men. Those other 5 all had set their alarms for 6:30am; needless to say I was awake at 6:30am too. I hung around and had the breakfast for purchase, just to pass the time till it was light enough to leave. There was only one other pair of boots left when I struck out in the semi-dark at 7:45am!

Dawn just beginning as I left town, it’s warmth bringing mist down from the hills and thick fingers of fog in from the east. The Camino started to climb immediately, and the mist seemed to be chasing me up the hill.

As I ascend I can’t see very far in front of me, the mist grows thicker until I finally burst out above it all and the world below has disappeared. About 2 dozen photos later I put my head down and concentrated on hiking else I’ll never get to Salas.

It’s all hills this morning: steep, level, gentle – all part of one big incline. I hope I’m wearing off yesterday’s huge lunch!

It turns out the Camino went up and over a mountain that the highway tunneled through. Therefore there’s a correspondingly steep descent down to the valley floor. And just like the Up, it’s a steep, level, and at times gentle decline, but always down.

More road all the way to Cornella, 11.5 kms. First chance of coffee and to sit on a soft seat this morning. I relished my break, again knowing with my bed reserved tonight I’ve no hurry to get to Salas.

It was a steep climb after the monastery of Cornella, why is it always steep when you have a full stomach? Into the forest then a beautifully wooded track undulating ever so gently down. All that wonderful nature was interrupted when the path popped us out right at a gravel yard. 😦 The authorities are building a freeway across the valley, and I can hear them tearing up the hillside opposite. It must be both a source of fascination and annoyance for the residents on this side.

I stopped in a gutter by a stack of logs for a lunch break at 17 kms. Sometimes you have to take whatever seat in the shade you can find!

Another sojourn into the forest and although there’s the constant noise from the highway project it’s still overwhelmingly peaceful with birds chirping, dappled sunlight, and a pervasive coolness that lends an ethereal feeling to the woods. I know there 3 pilgrims just behind me but I feel I am all alone in the world.

Finally Salas. There’s only 3 of us in this albergue, maybe I’ll sleep well tonight! It’s all new and spotlessly clean.

Bernd was also at my hostel last night but is carrying on an additional 8kms to stay at an albergue known for its special camino vibe. I’m happy to stay with some relatively short days for the next couple of stages as my shin splints heal. There’s a big mountain stage coming up!

I ended up having dinner with a fellow camino forum member tonight who, along with our table mate, walked the 50-odd kilometers from Oviedo today!! Mike’s been on the road for a few weeks doing the Camino Olvidado, then the Salvador, and now the Primitivo. It was nice to meet and share camino stories!