What a day! The rain never materialized; in fact, the chance fell to 10% and I was regretting not waiting at that other albergue yesterday so I could take on the mountain route today. Then I remembered: there’s this modern convenience called a taxi! So I had my hotel call a cab and I was driven back to where the Camino diverged and off I went.

It was a clear start, with high clouds and mist in the valley but as I climbed higher on the logging road through the baby pine trees I walked right up into zero visibility. Well, I’m not sure what really qualifies as zero but I probably averaged 50m viz for the next 10 kms!

After 3 kms the trees stopped and it was barren mountain with scrubby heather. At my first crest, I came up a herd of wild Asturian horses. The black stallion shook his mane and snorted at me then went galloping off across the hill. Magnificent! The rest of the herd paid me no attention at all and continued to graze.

At 4.5 kms the only pilgrim I saw all morning passed me on the steepest climb of the day. He quickly disappeared into the ether and I was alone for the next 4 hours.

This is called the Hospitales route as it is an ancient pilgrim way and there are remains of a couple old “hospitals” or pilgrim refuges dating back to the 13th century!

One is warned not to attempt this route in poor weather but the markings could not be better. Every couple dozen meters there’s a signpost. It would be extremely difficult to get lost.

The wind blew the mist in swirls about me, sometimes the visibility lifted for a few moments but sure enough it dropped again till all was shrouded in white. I knew there was supposed to be killer views all around me but I was really quite content with the hike. I almost felt protected by the mist as I was walking in a constant little bubble of visibility of a few meters, wherever I went my bubble went with me.

I was alone but not lonely as there was always the constant chirping of birds and distant tinkling of cow bells. In truth, there could have been a whole army marching behind me and I’d have never known unless they were blowing their bugles!

Just when I was thinking I was alone atop the world I saw tire tracks in the grass and then a car sped by in the gloom! A road! Not so remote after all…

At 11:17 am and 11.77 kms (how’s that for synchronicity?) the sun broke through and the mist parted. A wonderful view of horses and cows grazing and mountains beyond. Exactly 5 minutes later (I timed it) I was socked in again.

12.6 kms another road and a square concrete block to finally have a sit down break and eat my sandwich sourced from the hotel’s breakfast buffet.

Immediately I started descending, eventually into greater visibility but still no views. Through a tiny hamlet with Galician style stone buildings and slate roofs to finally reach Berducedo at 2:02p and 22.02 kms (another coincidence!). Wow, wish I knew they moved the village 3 kms further – I’m tired!

Berducedo with the mountain I descended to the left

The sun was out and the afternoon was beautiful. I’d heard good reviews about the albergue in the next town so after a coffee and an Aquarius I hit the road, literally, for the last 4 kms to A Mesa. Gorgeous views but walking the hard pavement was pretty tough on the old bod after a long day.

A Mesa is a tiny town, a few homes, old church, and 2 albergues. I’m in the expensive one, €12, but with a full bar and kitchen! Life is good…