I’m really not much good at sleeping in. I tried this morning, the thought last night being I’d have a lazy start this morning, maybe do the little hike at my campground, then have a swim before checking out at noon but the reality is sitting around my picnic table at 6am in 55° weather waiting for the sun to appear over the horizon gets old real fast.

So I packed up and headed out. I stopped just inside the park at Wawona to pick up a few things at the market; then noticed the sign at the back of the parking lot for the Pioneer Yosemite History Center which sounded interesting. It’s a little village of preserved buildings dating back to the late 1800’s which basically tell the story of the beginning of Yosemite. One building was the Wells Fargo office which sold stage coach tickets for around the country. One was the home of the Degnans, famous bakers of Yosemite. Another was an artist’s cabin, artists’ work being very influential in the day for promoting the beauty and therefore tourism of the Park. To top it off, there’s a wonderful covered bridge leading to this site that dates back to 1875! A cool find.

Due to my morning’s loitering it wasn’t until 10:50am and 83°F that I started up the steep short hike to Artist’s Point/Inspiration Point from the Tunnel View vista point. The sun beat brutally off the rocky granite trail – this is why I always shake my head at folks who start a trail after early morning! Well, at least I’ll get a sweat on today….

The small patches of shade on the trail helped tremendously. I finally arrived at a big, flat area with patches of pavement leftover from when you used to be able to drive up here. The Viewpoint! However, I had to work really hard to find the view. There’s been a considerable amount of tree growth since:

Curious with where the pavement led, I followed it up for another 1/2 mile or so until it became clear that the forest was taking back the road and my way forward was blocked by fallen trees and bushy upstarts. It turns out I found the best view on the way down not 1/3 mile from the start, go figure. Total: 3.5 hard miles.

Like clockwork, the noontime clouds rolled in offering a bit of relief as I drove down into the furnace that was the valley floor. 102°F but bearable with a light breeze and lots of trees to hide under. I had a late lunch again at the Degnan’s Deli of this morning’s bakery fame. They moved their operation down here in 1956 and the family ran the concession until the 1970’s. Hardly anyone was in the shop; the valley feels deserted compared to yesterday, and it’s probably a 1/10th or less of the regular number of visitors. It’s amazing to be here without any crowds.

With the heat on any further activities were nixed so I opted for a swim in the Merced at the base of El Capitan. The water was lovely and cool, with shallow bits to soak in and deeper parts to swim in. There are moms with their beers, kids jumping off rocks, dads swirling in inner tubes – American summer at its best. Four antlered deer caused a minor commotion as they skipped down to the river to drink and forage amongst its bushes. I’m definitely coming back here tomorrow with my chair and a picnic!

I’m back wild camping tonight. I’ve left Hwy. 41 in favor of Hwy. 120, the northernmost of the west side Yosemite entrances. It’s a bit closer to the valley for tomorrow’s adventures and for the following day when I will take 120 East (aka Tioga Pass Road) through the Park up to Tuolumne Meadows.

Well, it’s staying hot late and there’s bugs here. I think I’ll carry on up Tioga Road tomorrow, maybe camping one more night just outside the eastern entrance to the Park, then home Tuesday…