
8:30a I popped down to the Tourist Office to get advice on the various Post Box walks and other touristy things to do. Dianne recommended certain hikes for me, signed me up for a tour tomorrow, and was going to let me know about any boat tours that might be happening.
I was back to the B&B by 9a but received the news my rental car wouldn’t be available till noon so I pivoted to do a local walk instead.
Peter from yesterday had suggested Mundens Point walk around the right-hand side of the harbor. It climbs up an old donkey cart path to some gun battlements and either over to the next bay or up to the top of the ridge.

For centuries donkeys and horses were the only way to move goods around the island and there’s zillions of miles of disused paths, many now walking routes. The rock face of this steep cliff is now lined with several layers of heavy steel mesh to hold back rockfalls. Climbing up to the point I passed one set of ruined batteries, still with a rusting metal gun and on up to two more: each with one big fat cannon lying tossed aside now that the French and Germans are no longer a threat.


Below the mounting blocks were proper storage rooms and possibly barracks? I was surprised at the lack of graffiti or trash in these subterranean rooms. An old army boot, some rusted cans, a used gun casing, possibly a hammock, and bits of rusted metal are all that remains, but still left in place as if they’ve been lying there for decades.




40 mins brought me to the 3rd battery over the Rupert’s Bay, where fuels and what not are offloaded. The day was turning out quite nice with the grey clouds of this morning burning away; luckily there’s always the cool trade winds blowing, otherwise it’d be rather hot in this barren, volcanic landscape.

I though I’d reached the end of the walk but I saw a trail so I followed it up, up, up – what’s here but cactus, where does trail go? I continued up, thankful for the cool breeze. I summited at a narrow ridge with each valley far below these steep cliffs. I could see another gun battlement ahead with cannons standing there on duty so I soldiered on, now cursing the gusty wind on this precipitous trail as my trembling, out-of-hiking-shape legs threatened my balance.



I perched on a rock a bit back from the ledge for a rest and my sandwich. Once fortified I took the little path that continued, just to see where it went and lo and behold, just around the corner were 2 more cannons and 2 big picnic tables! I was tempted to keep going along the ridge path till I intersected with the main road down into town but it wouldn’t be open until tomorrow due to resurfacing and I didn’t want to get in trouble. However brightly painted the exterior I don’t think I’d like the inside of the island’s jail….


It took an hour to descend and I believe two to go up. I’ll find out mileage later…. The rain came just as I reentered town. Just as well my rental car was delayed as I wouldn’t want to be hiking nor driving my first day in this. I was nicely settled on a park bench in Castle Gardens but the drizzle turned to downpour so I made a run to the museum.


It’s an excellent museum for such a little island, very encompassing of both historical and cultural aspects with lots of interesting display cases including those of salvaged shipwreck treasures. Of note was a carriage donated by Colin & Marlene Yon, my B&B hosts!


Island Facts: 2000k from South Africa, 3000k from Brazil, HLE is one of the remotest islands in the world. The island is the remains of a 14 million year old volcano that is slowly being eroded by the sea, wind, and rain. First discovered in 1502 by the Portuguese (on the feast day of Saint Helena), it wasn’t widely known until the Dutch found it in 1589. The British came in 1659 and took it control and over the centuries became an important water & supply stop for sailing ships. The advent of the steam engine and the opening of the Suez Canal severely curtailed visits but those of a curious mind came: Halley, Darwin, Cook, Wellington, etc. It’s claim to fame is that of being a place of exile for political prisoners: 1700 Huguenots, Napoleon (of course), Zulu leaders and families, 6000 Boer War prisoners, even 3 men convicted of crimes against the state of Bahrain!
As I was exiting the museum I bumped into Susan, the nervous flier who sat behind me on the plane. Her daughter is marrying a Saint on the 22nd and everyone on island knows about the wedding. She says she’s constantly meeting people from the plane – I guess there’s so few of us visitors we stick out, and the groom’s family is large so she can hardly walk down the street without being hailed.
Next I toured the church, a few shops, then had lunch at Anne’s in Castle Gardens. Tuna for the 3rd day in a row but when your wrap is made of fresh tuna it’s hard to turn down. No seltzer water so I had to settle for a beer. There goes any afternoon plans of taking my rental car out! The mist is continuing to breeze through town so any sightseeing would be hampered so chilling with my beverage on the porch seems to be the right call.

“Home” and showered by 4p, then tea and a book and some good old British TV for the rest of the evening.
