Day 39: St Helena

Morning coffee on the porch – can you see the white minibus up high on Ladder Hill road? This is my little white rental car, and that is the mountain I must conquer as my test drive out of James Valley.

Today I have some sightseeing planned: High Knoll Fort and Plantation House (governor’s house) and perhaps a walk. I should be back mid-afternoon as parking will be tight tonight- it’s the Festival of Lights parade into town and they close the big parking lot there so spaces outside my B&B will be at a premium.

*There’s one little problem with the car, can anyone guess? I am not pleased. Send out a traffic alert that this white Figo will be traveling the island in 1st gear!*

My first stop was High Knoll Fort, 2000m above sea level, perched on crest overlooking Jamestown. This entailed driving up Ladder Hill Road which is mostly one lane with several blind corners and just a few passing points. Luckily I timed it after the morning rush downhill and encountered no one on the road.

The first bits completed 1798 as a huge defensive magazine tower. Added to over the years, especially during Napoleon’s exile as battlements sprung up all over the island to repel any rescue attempts.

*Overlooking High Tree Hollow, town at top of Ladder Hill*

Next up I stopped at the cemetery, mostly because I overshot my turn and had to do a U-ie right in front of it. It’s very large and very picturesque with blooming alliums and green, green grass.

Then I had my 10:30a tour of Plantation House, home of the Governor of St. Helena. Originally built in 1792 as the summer residence to avoid the heat of Jamestown its now the year-round abode. It has 35 rooms, 6 staff, 288 acres, and a very famous tortoise.

1882 Jonathan was dropped off a sailing ship with 3 others, and has been here ever since. He just celebrated 190 this year which was covered by the worldwide media, including a feature on CNN. 2 Dutch ladies on the tour came to St Helena specifically to meet him! He now has 3 new companions, only in their 50’s I might add.

After the tour I walked a trail on the estate to Butchers Grave then on into the woods on what I surmise are old logging roads. I went in a couple of directions, 1st towards the sea but it started to descend and get warmer so then took the other fork that went higher and therefore greener and cooler. The terrain changed from cacti to ferns to dense forest in the matter of a few hundred yards. The road looped back along the rear of Plantation House and to my car. About 1 hr of walking.

I used Maps.me to navigate my supposed way to Blue Hill to potentially do a small hike but it was sending me down wrong roads and I do not like trying to find reverse in right-hand drive cars! It had also rained on that side of the island so I gave up within spitting distance of the Hill and headed back to town. This was just as well as parking was filling up and I was lucky to get a spot nearby my accommodation (parallel parking down a hill, thank you very much).

White knuckle descent down Ladder Hill. Mostly single lane but some bulges for passing but also many blind corners. Waited at top for a car to pass me so I wouldn’t be the first meeting cars head on!

I had an early dinner down at Anne’s Place. Susan and her husband were there so I joined them for my meal. It turns out they have family in Vancouver (Westview!) so we had lots to chat about. I made sure to return in plenty of time for the Festival of Lights, a street parade that passed right in front of the B&B’s front porch. It’s a huge event and hundreds of Saints drape themselves in lights and dayglo stix and inch their way to the harbor front where they party and have fireworks shoot overhead from Ladder Hill.