For today’s driving adventure I took the Side Path out of town. It had only reopened yesterday after being closed for 18 months refurbishment and I appreciated the almost two lane wide, straight shot up to connect with the road over to Rupert’s Bay. Descending to Rupert’s was another story, however. Treacherous road with fallen rocks, pot holes, blind corners, and oncoming traffic. One vehicle met me ahead on and I momentarily froze, he kindly backed up as is the custom, till we could safely pass. I will not be driving that road again.

I continued on, stopping roadside as possible for photos, until I reached the trailhead for the Flagstaff hike, aka St Helena’s Murray Peak without the switchbacks. Relatively flat till a kicker of a hill at the end. 55 mins and 2 miles up. I started in mist & drizzle, and ended in bright sun. The whump, whump of wind turbines paced my descent.

A short drive away was my cultural visit of the day: Longwood House, Napoleon Bonaparte’s residence during his exile, and eventual place of death, after his capture after the Battle of Waterloo. They’ve recreated the house as closely as they could from paintings and etchings and memoirs of the many scribes and attendants of Napoleon’s. I was super bummed that no photography was allowed inside….

Napoleon was brought to the island in 1815 and it was decided that they’d use the Lieutenant Governor’s summer house, Longwood, to house him. The arrival of the prisoner also brought an influx of soldiers, staff, etc. so much that the island’s population swelled from 2,000 to 3,000 virtually overnight causing food rationing. The locals also were suddenly under lockdown with no one allowed out after 9pm unless they had a password.

Napoleon wasn’t impressed with his new lodging, as unlike today, the house was rat infested, suffered from damp and mildew, and did not have the style of furnishings to which he was accustomed! He gradually changed the latter, importing fine Sevrès china, silver, paintings, etc from the remains of his Tuileries estate, and had new wallpaper and silk draperies installed.

What he couldn’t change was his health, which had been poor for years: malaria, scabies, epilepsy, obesity, and finally stomach cancer were the ones I could remember, and he died in May, 1821.

I found it all quite fascinating, looking at his death bed, seeing his billiards table, learning about the guests he entertained, hearing stories about him eating his meals in the bathtub. Unfortunately the audio guide runs about 2.5 hours and I only had 1.5 hours as the museum was only open 11a-1p so as time ran out I had to skip listening about his Last Will & Testament and all the many paintings commemorating his death. Darn.

There were only 3 other people touring Longwood and I knew all of them! The 2 Dutch ladies and Geoff, stepfather of the bride. It’s a small island….

After strolling some more through the grounds I drove over to Napoleon’s Tomb, to where he was buried until France came down a few years later and took him back to Paris. I wasn’t quite sure how to get there so at a very pinched 5-way intersection I just pulled to one side to let all the cars in both directions pass through, flagging the last one to stop so I could ask directions. Who was it but Geoff, who was just returning from there. He offered to turn around and lead me to the Tomb!

Napoleon himself chose this sight as it was a favorite place of his for strolling and riding his horse (he really had quite a bit of freedom on the island). It’s a spectacularly beautiful spot and somebody goes to a great deal of effort to maintain it.

Afterwards, Geoff asked if I still planned on hiking Diana’s Peak, the iconic hike of St Helena (he overheard me talking to the gift shop lady) and if so, could he join me? Sure, as long as I could follow him there. On these narrow twisty roads I find it much easier to be #2 in line; let the #1 driver deal with meeting on-coming cars!

The hike starts with a 1/2 mile trek up a grassy “road” lined with huge, overgrown flax plants before getting to the “hike”. We chose to do the 3 peaks as an out-and-back, mostly because of time and the fact that once we reached the 3rd peak the mist socked in and we couldn’t see a thing! Stunning views all around on the way up, and totally within a rain cloud on the return. Only about 2.25 miles in distance but considerable elevation with a lot of stairs.

We finished the hike about 4pm, with our cars parting ways as Geoff was staying up in the Ladder Hill area and I wanted an easier descent down to Jamestown. As it was I was faced with everyone exiting town after work so I had countless cars to give way to on the steep, 180° blind corners – I deserved a gold medal for getting home with my car and nerves unscathed.

Saying that, the locals are extremely friendly. Always a “hello, how are you doing?” from everyone you pass, and always a wave from passing cars whether you’re a pedestrian or another driver. As a driver I was happy to participate in the hand waving bit but in stressful situations I have to admit it was sometimes reduced to just a finger when both hands were required on the wheel. Not that finger, lol.

Colin & Marlene took me out for dinner tonight. Up Ladder Hill to Tasty Bites, one of their favorites (thank goodness Marlene drove!) and who walked in but Susan and Geoff and their family. An even smaller world!