Fields, stairs, and a ruptured coastline; these are the memories I have of today. Gorgeous start in a field and woods, a massive descent to a beach then straight up again. Oh, that was fun, let’s do it again! Then miles of thick grassy fields, turned south at a lighthouse and then wild, fractured, uplifted rocks.

I’m staying at the Hartland Quay Hotel, part of a family owned complex on this little spit of land surrounded (today) by crashing waves. There’s a pub, hotel, gift store and shipwreck museum. It’s the only game in town and was packed with tourists when I arrived at 3pm but quietened down by supper time to those staying here or enjoying the food & fiddlers in the restaurant.