SWCP Day 39: Porthleven > The Lizard

It’s a big day today so I arranged for a taxi at 7:15a to take me back down to the coast. Fortuitously my BnB offered breakfast at 7a so I had a quick coffee in my room and took brekkie to go.

A short walk above Porthleven Beach brought me to Loe Bar, once the mouth of a river deposited sand eventually cut it off creating a huge lake on one side, and a slippery pebble beach (aka “shingle”) on the other.

The walking was easy o’er gently undulating cliffs. Only one short section of closed in hedgerows, the rest of the day was wide open with views for miles.

At 4 miles I reached the cute St. Winwaloe, “The Church of Storms”, positioned just steps above Gunwalloe Cove. Probably built in the late 14th century, it also has a 13th century font.

Looking back at the church

A climb out of the cove and another mile along the cliffs was Poldhu Cove with its violent crashing surf. At the far side, past a cheeky up&down, was the Marconi Center. This is where the first wireless telegraph signals were sent across the Atlantic in 1901, and where groundbreaking discoveries in long range radio communications were made.

Two more miles, and another little cove: Mullion Cove with its substantial twin breakwaters that were built in 1891 for the seining industry. This was my halfway point so I treated myself to a latte in an old-fashioned tearoom that I think was once someone’s front room….

4 more miles across open land that’s part of a Nature Reserve. Most of it was across very lumpy dried quagmire, hard going but so thankful it wasn’t muddy!

There’s no sense of scale here, it’s basically like descending a stony waterfall. I think the path designers gave up and we’re forced to make our own way down

At the top of the far rise I came across a herd of ponies. They were busy eating, except the alpha which gave me the stink eye when I loitered too long!

At 12 miles I reached the incredible Kynance Cove with its jagged islets, turquoise waters, and beach that looks like it belongs in Greece. Being a Sunday it was heaving with people so I quickly crossed the stoney beach in the 2nd picture and climbed up out of the crowds.

Behind Kynance is the Lizard peninsula
Looking back at Kynance

Whew! One more little narrow valley and it’s \ + / and a stretch along the fields of the western side of the point and I made it to the Lizard. As predicted, it was a big day but pretty easy walking with bits of cardio thrown in. 😅 

I had dinner at the most southerly inn in England, and, being a Sunday, had my first roast dinner of the trip!