SWCP Day 48: Looe > Whitsand Bay Fort

Well, that was a horrible day. I was optimistic starting out – I knew it was going to rain but really, must there be gale force winds too?

I set off in light rain at 7:45a, hoping for a head start on the heavy rain due between 9a and 10a. My rain jacket was steaming (on the inside) after the 2 miles of steep climbs on hard roads out of Looe.

Oh, still so naive of what the day will bring
A tiny bit of lovely wooded walk then more road all the way to Seaton

Proper rain started as I approached Seaton and I took shelter in the patio of a closed pub for 15 minutes until the cafe next door opened. The weather said 100% chance of rain now, lessening to 50% at 11a, so that means breakfast! Could have sat for hours watching rain droplets slide down the windows but I did have somewhere to go so finally ventured out.

It was another mile+ on the road until I found some nice undulating trail. Today was a day I was actually thankful for hedgerows as I was buffeted by strong winds on the exposed bits.

At 8 miles I arrived at Portwrinkle, a bit wind-battered but relatively dry

The road through Portwrinkle led to a path running between holes 5 & 6 in the middle of a golf course. Here I was fully exposed to the wind and was finding it difficult to stay upright.

That’s the golf course in the distance

By the end of the next field I’d had enough and wanted to be behind a hedgerow. I had that option, as the Coast Path had an inland option around Tregantle Fort, however this path had not been trimmed and I got absolutely soaked from the wet thigh-high grass.

My waterproof socks finally gave up any semblance of waterproofness and became little sloshy swimming pools in my shoes. Finally, long after I was not having any fun anymore, I got dumped out onto a gravel sidewalk along the busy B road. It took another 1/2 mile before I found an empty car park where I could sit on the ground in the rain and change out my socks. I knew they’d soak thru instantly but I had to get rid of the standing water. I’m now cold, wet and still have 2 miles to go (and the bus just passed me as I was writing this 😢)

And it’s pouring….

I had enough of soaking feet and losing my balance by the blasting wind so I took to the road a bit before the Path actually did for last 2 miles. That’s about 9 miles of pavement today! 😠 I just wanted it over with.

Absolutely pelting, horizontal rain at the end of my walk made me truly miserable. Just when I was feeling very sorry for myself I saw 3 hikers coming towards me on the road, but they had the misfortune of having that same rain pelting them in the face. I felt marginally better about my situation….

Tonight I’m booked into a “chalet” in a “holiday park”. I chose it as it was the cheapest option around but I’m very pleased with it. Basically a hotel room, it has a well-stocked tea tray, an adjustable radiator, and a super hot towel rack perfect for drying dripping clothes. All highly valued by this sopping wet walker. Oh, also an on-site restaurant and a bus stop outside the resort. Great as I’m taking a day off tomorrow and busing into Plymouth!!!