Stresa anchors the western end of beautiful Lake Maggiore.  I spent the day on its waters visiting first the gardens at Villa Taranto, then 2 of the Borromeo Islands close to Stresa.

A leisurely hour’s ride on a ferry brought me to Verbania, and the 20 hectares garden: Villa Taranto.  A Scotsman in 1931 bought up a villa and its grounds and turned it into a botanical showpiece.

Next was a ferry ride over to Isola Madre, the largest of the Borromeo islets.  Back in the late 1400’s much of the local area, including the near-shore islands, was bought up by the Borromeos, a noble banking family from Milan, and a good deal still remains in their hands today. 

First developed in 1513 the island slowly transformed over the centuries from an orchard to a “English botanical garden” including rare trees, tropical plants, planted terraces and pheasants & peacocks.

And the Palazzo.  I loved the palazzo.  Huge ceilings, wooden beams, large open airy windows, every room with a view.  It was used by the family right up to just before WWII.

Finally, in the growing heat of a busy Sunday afternoon, I ferried over to Isola Bella, the “jewel” of the islands. Quotes are mine because although the palazzo, gardens, and town were incredible they were all just OTT for me: too much, too crowded, too overdone.  Amazing, in a flamboyant I’ve-got-more-money-than-I-know-what-to-do-with way. Anyway, the history: in 1650 Vitaliano Borromeo decided to turn this little isola into “a place of delights” and his descendants continued to go crazy with it over the centuries…..that’s me paraphrasing.

The main draw of the garden was the 10-tiered Teatro Massimo at the opposite end of the isle. A fantastical construction of specifically manicured plantings and statues of unicorns and Roman gods, mainly created in the late 17th century.

Whew! 8 hours of sightseeing in the hot sun with increasingly jostling crowds tuckered me out. I ferried back home to Stresa, enjoyed an afternoon gelato like a good honorary Italian, and retreated to my balcony to enjoy the remainder of the day