This is considered “the most arduous day” of the Path with 10 river valleys to traverse, all of them “steep and deep”. 15 miles and 4200’ ascent; no problem for a day hike but I’ve got a heavy load (especially with the ginormous packed lunch the hotel gave me!) so I’ve taken the advice of … Continue reading SWCP Day 19: Hartland Quay > Morenstow

Fields, stairs, and a ruptured coastline; these are the memories I have of today. Gorgeous start in a field and woods, a massive descent to a beach then straight up again. Oh, that was fun, let’s do it again! Then miles of thick grassy fields, turned south at a lighthouse and then wild, fractured, uplifted … Continue reading SWCP Day 18: Clovelly > Hartland Quay

The rain finished in the early morning hours but left behind a grey, humid day. One bright spot were these bathing beauties who meet every day to swim in that tidal saltwater pool. The Path followed the promenade out of town, along another rail>trail corridor, then out into rolling coastal hills for a couple of … Continue reading SWCP 17: Westward Ho! > Clovelly

0 miles today as it’s a much looked forward to Day Off. I’ve rented a holiday apartment for 2 nights with 2 bedrooms, a full kitchen, and a fantastic bathtub in which I intend to have a couple of long hot soaks. I had expected to be hunkered down inside watching TV while it rained … Continue reading SWCP Day 16: Westward Ho!

I started today by taking a bus to Bideford, where I had gotten to yesterday on the bicycle. The Quayside was a lovely wide riverside promenade that ran until the edge of town where it devolved into a road through a housing estate and further still into a narrow no-man’s land stuck between waterfront and … Continue reading SWCP Day 15: Bideford > Westward Ho!

I have to preface this post by saying I had quite the aching knee last night, nothing that Advil didn’t fix, but it made me aware that walking long distances on hard surfaces are not in my best interest. So today I’m traveling uber-lite with just my wallet and a bottle of water (and a … Continue reading SWCP Day 14: Braunton > Instow

A day of thirds today: the morning was a brilliant walk around a headland in bright sun with beautiful views, then a long march behind the beaches, ending with a slog back to my BnB. Great start looking back at yesterday’s beach It all start great with Sophie’s husband Matt dropping me off where I … Continue reading SWCP Day 13: Putsborough > Braunton

Good but strenuous day today. Although the total #s might not seem like much it was pretty consistently steep ups & downs for the first 8 miles. From early showers and a grey start the weather turned out to be stunning. Same story of cold breeze along the cliffs but this was actually welcome with all … Continue reading SWCP Day 12: Ilfracombe > Putsborough

Woolacombe, the next stage’s end, is a black hole for accommodation and there’s no buses today on Easter Sunday so I’m have a “nero” day of just 6 miles to Ilfracombe. It was a gorgeous day for meandering: bright sun, brisk wind, good views, little bays, wildflowers. Lots of walkers out to chat with and … Continue reading SWCP Day 11: Combe Martin > Ilfracombe

A later start again today: a leisurely breakfast timed well with the finish of the rain showers (fingers crossed). From the hotel it was a half mile walk along the Heddon River to rejoin the Path, then a very steep climb up to round the point at the sea. Gusty winds had me gripping the … Continue reading SWCP Day 10: Heddon’s Mouth > Combe Martin