Dolomites: Day 4

/ alliwanders

Bolzano

Today is Transfer Day, I’m moving from  Ortisei to Bolzano and so I didn’t have time, or frankly the energy, for another big hike so I followed the advice of the hotel staff to do a little walk above Ortisei.

I made it across the bridge into Ortisei and stopped at the first cafe for sustenance :-). A cappuccino and croissant went down a treat, sitting at my leisure watching the buses in the main square disgorge their backpack-wielding hikers heading to the gondolas. The bus network here is fabulous and most hotels offer a free transit card so it’s easy to move around the valley getting to different towns/hikes.

Anyway, the walk started at the base of the Secada gondola …..

…which is reached from just off the main square by a series of escalators and sloping people-movers inside tunnels in the hillside. This preserves the houses above and makes access easy in the winter – neat!

Looking back at town from between escalator rides

The Val D’Anna Annatal walk follows along a rushing creek and through the shade of dappled trees, gently coursing upwards to top out at a small meadow with a hütte. The aim mirrors the Japanese concept of “forest bathing”, to find mindfulness in nature. It was the perfect Sunday stroll. 

A “cure basin” to reset inner peace by swishing barefoot in cold mountain water (instructions provided)
Hammocks in case one suffers from over relaxation 
Multiple weirs for rhythmic waterfall sounds 
Even the fungi is pretty

I reached the hütte and its little meadow, a friendly aspect with a profusion of cheery red loungers and umbrellas. I ordered some sparkling water creekside and just sat enjoying nature, a balm to my weary body and soul.

Feeling more balanced I returned to my hotel to rescue my luggage and hop on the 2pm bus to Bolzano, my next Dolomiti destination.

I’m staying in the old town at a guesthouse in a 12th century building which is an interesting mix of chic/modern and medieval. Sort of Bauhaus meets monastery.

A few doors down from my hotel
one passageway to a set of rooms. Hotel is 4 townhouses combined, each 5 stories high and 68 meters long so a warren of halls, stairs, & courtyards
Frescoes and painted beamed ceiling uncovered during renovation of the lounge/hallway to my room
My room. The huge ceramic thing in the corner is an old heater

I’ll leave exploring Bolzano for tomorrow as almost every shop is closed up tight since it’s Sunday. Instead I took care of some chores: finding a laundromat and grocery store, surprisingly easy it turned out. Picnic salad tonight in my boudoir!

Google’s directions took me through some of the ancient narrow passageways through buildings a full block long
So long that there’s atriums in some to break the buildings up into front, middle, and rear sections.

Google: “to avoid heavy taxation on street frontage the buildings are incredibly narrow and deep. To bring natural light into these deep spaces without electricity, architects built open interior patios and atriums”. I’ll discover more tomorrow!