Montenegro/Albania: Day 9

Shkodër

A rainy day caused a slight change in our sightseeing schedule. Just around the corner from our hotel we first visited St. Stephen’s Cathedral.

200 years old, became a gym during the communist years when religion was outlawed
Next visited a Venetian mask museum. Venice has outsourced its production to Albania.
I didn’t bother with the museum part, just looked around the shop
the longest and best-preserved Ottoman-era stone bridge in Albania, 1768
closest we got to the fortress was a drive by
Needing to fill time we drove out to the lake for a picture and a coffee

Finally we visited the Site of Witness and Memory, a museum dedicated to those imprisoned and/or lost to the brutal years of Communism in Albania.

A brief history: after WWII Communists, in the guise of being anti-Nazis, took over the country with the promise of equality for all, but we all know how that turns out. The country was closed by Dictator Hoxha and by 1960 religion was banned, churches were demolished or turned into gyms, cinemas, cafes. Priests, the educated, dissenters, protesters, etc were imprisoned or murdered. The president had successive bromances then breakups with Yugoslavia, Soviet Union, and China. Finally alone and paranoid by the 70’s Hoxha set dubious world records of 1. smoking the most cigarettes in one day (221), and 2. building the most bunkers (170,000). He dies in 1985, and by 1992 Albania finally votes in a democratic government and opens again.

Lots of panels describing individuals and religious personages imprisoned by the regime
She left Albania in 1928 yet Hoxha had her investigated in the ‘70’s as a possible threat to the State. In 1985 Albania walked out of the U.N. during a speech she gave. She was eventually allowed home in 1989
Museum built around old police holding cells. Some held here for months before trial, imprisonment, or execution
Torture chamber

After that somber visit we were free for the afternoon. A quick lunch, then afternoon tea in my room before our meetup for dinner.

My bad picture of Jelena giving us directions in the Old Town
George has become the group’s photographer and I rely on him to fill any gaps in my reel